Latest products
oak jewelry box featuring box joint construction
by：Merryshine
2019-11-06
When I decided to make a jewelry box for my daughter as a birthday present, my goal was to make it as special as possible.
So since I always like to learn a new woodworking technique, I decided to teach myself how to make box joints.
The box joint, also known as the finger joint, is a beautiful form of carpentry that turns a simple box into a beautiful woodworking work.
Although similar to the more elegant bird tail joint, the box joint is easier to manufacture and actually provides a superior strength joint.
As shown in this manual, the technology used to create them is simple and easy to master.
To build a similar project, you need the following tools and materials:
Plans to build a fixture store are available online (Google search)
Or can buy ready-made. Block Plane -
LidElectric Drill3/4 \"chisel small Phillips head screwdriver material list for shaping bending: 1/2\" x 4 \"x 36\" oak on the side of the box (
For boxes with an overall size of 11 1/2 \"L x 6 1/2\" D x 3 1/2 \"H/dim inside.
10 \"x 5\" x 3 1/8 \")
Top1/4 \"x 4\" x 48 \"oak for upper and lower pallets (
Lower fixing tray and upper removable tray for each 1 1/2 \"H)
1/8 \"hard plate for the bottom felt of the box and upper tray for aligning the upper and lower traysbrass hinges
1 \"wideTitebond III (
Slow curing glue)
There are many shapes and sizes for the box joint fixture.
Some are very basic and some are very complicated.
You can find a free plan online, build it yourself or buy a fixture made in a beautiful factory (
View Woodcraft or Amazon).
The box joint fixture as shown here is easy to manufacture and uses stacked dado blades, making it a quick and easy process to create the box joint.
I built this fixture with a plan I found in Woodsmith magazine for a few bucks with the rest of the project wood.
A picture is a thousand words, but the video is better.
There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing how to cut the box joints in a variety of different ways.
The photo I posted shows a 1/4 box connector, which is the size I use on the jewelry box.
The following photo illustrates the basic steps to cut the workpiece of the two insert box joints: 1-
Full view photos of artifacts and jig2 initial settings-
Position the first artifact to a close-up photo of jig3-
Move the workpiece to the fixture key for the second and subsequent cuts4
Align the second using the first finished product (mating)
After cutting the four sides of the box to the right length, you can create the box connector.
This can be achieved in several different ways.
One way is to number each end of each side of the box and cut the ends in numbered order, working around the box.
This method corresponds to the sequence of photos I posted.
However, I found it easier to cut the sides of two long boxes first.
I then use the long edge as my \"gasket\" to cut the side of the short box as shown in step 4.
Note: always use some scrap to test the accuracy of the fixture before using the item wood to make sure you get a good fit.
The fixture will need some fine tuning if they don\'t fit well.
Also, keep in mind that all fingers and slots must be exactly the same size (
There is no part of the finger or slot at the top or bottom of the workpiece)
The main body of this jewelry box is 3 1/2 \"high: 14 joints X 1/4\" joint dimensions = 3 1/2 \"high work pieces. This series of pictures outlines how to assemble the side of the box.
There are several items to note before the conference. -
After cutting all the box joints, a 1/8 groove needs to be cut on the side of the box to accommodate the bottom of the hard wooden box.
Find the groove 1/4 \"from the bottom on the side of the box \". -
Wrap the side of the box at the edge of the joint using masking or painter tape.
This will capture any extruded glue and minimize the cleaning time. -
Use slow curing glue like Titebond III so that there is enough time to apply the glue to all seam surfaces before assembly.
Ideally, if you have enough clips, it\'s better to assemble the box in one step.
As you can see, I didn\'t, had to assemble the first three sides and then do the last.
In this case, the belt clip may be a better way.
Note: No matter how you choose to assemble the box, use a square to check the inner corners to make sure you get tight joints and square the box as much as possible.
The hinge dad can now cut if needed.
They made me forget at the time, and I did it later in the process.
If you want to cut them now, see the final assembly steps in this manual, which actually makes more sense.
Finally, polish the outside of the box evenly so that they are good and smooth (
In addition to the slight cleaning, you should have polished the inside of the box before assembly).
You can now apply stains and varnish to the box, or, if you wish, wait until all the other parts (
Lid, decoration and tray)
Ready to finish.
It seems like a daunting task to shape the curved lid for this project, but I am surprised that it has become so easy.
As shown in the picture attached to this step :-
First, a template of the desired shape must be created and connected to both ends of the wood blank.
In this case, I used a template from a plan I found online and slightly modified the final shape as I needed it. -
Next, raise and adjust the saw blade so that the angle reflects the angle of the template (
Pay attention to recommend tall auxiliary fences that help support the workpiece). -
Make the first cut, then rotate the workpiece before and after, and match the cut on the other side of the top. -
Adjust the angle of the blade (as needed)
Remove the additional material and define the overall shape further.
Like the previous step, do a second cut on both sides of the top.
I only need to cut twice for me. -
The next step involves smoothing the ridges created by a table saw cut using a block plane.
To do this, pass the block plane through the top at an angle of 45 degrees, moving from the bottom of each side to the top of the lid. TAKE YOUR TIME!
Set the plane to remove a small amount of material each time it passes through and continue the planing until a satisfactory shape is obtained. -
Finally, the work piece is polished using several different grades of sandpaper as the final smoothing step.
Stains and varnish (
See dyeing and finishing steps for more details).
The whole process of creating a shaped lid took me only about 30 minutes and I like to practice another technique I have never done before.
Low pallets are actually not pallets at all.
In fact, it\'s just four 1/2 high decorative pieces that stick to the side of the box.
Pallets can be divided into any number of smaller compartments (
I chose to divide it into two parts)
Accept partitions by cutting dad on decorative pieces. -
First, cut a piece of felt and glue at the bottom of the hard plate box (
I used a simple glue stick for this task)-
Next, stick the decorative pieces to the four walls.
This step assumes that all the dyeing and finishing inside the box has been completed, and the decorative pieces have been completed (
See next for more details). -
Finally, glue the pallet partition in place (
Dry Fit before bonding, then make comfortable fit, use glue very economical).
UpperTrayYou can design the upper tray of any number of different storage configurations.
The examples shown here fit my needs and are easy to make. -
Like the tray decoration below, the tray above is also 1 1/2 high
Carefully adjust the size of the upper tray so it can be placed in the jewelry box.
You want it to be easy to disassemble, not comfortable
Cut all the trays into a certain length, then add the rabbit to assemble the four sides, add dad for the splitter as needed-
Note: Since the bottom of the tray will be installed in the tray frame as detailed in the next step, the partition will be only 1 1/4 \"high-
Cut a rabbit 1/4 deep (
1/4 \"half the thickness of oak trim)
To accommodate hardwood floors on the side, the bottom of the shelf covered with felt-
Dry Fit check to make sure the tray looks good and fits the jewelry box (
As shown in this photo)-
Polish all parts before assembly, after assembly, repair the seams with wooden putty as needed and make final sanding-
The shop that makes the square fixture as shown in the attached photo will help to assemble (
Just use a few clips)
Guaranteed to have a square tray
Stains and varnish on the tray-
As you did for the lower tray, feel the glue at the bottom of the tray
On some projects, I prefer to glue the bottom of the finished tray to the tray frame before assembly.
This method is not practical for the box Connector project, so I completed these tasks after assembling the frame of the box and the upper tray.
Dyeing is relatively simple.
I chose two stains, the golden oak of the box and the red oak of the lid.
It is more challenging to paint the frame of the box and upper tray.
I found it would be better to paint only all surfaces that can dry in horizontal positions at the same time.
This means that every layer of varnish (
I ended up with three.
In order to avoid dripping water and running, it is applied in stages.
I used a smooth polyurethane and was very pleased with the depth it produced in the wood pattern and the smooth glass finish.
In the long and sometimes tedious process, the most surprising thing is how easy it is for foam brushes to work when applying varnish.
I have been using synthetic brush brushes, but when painting in narrow areas and corners, I would highly recommend a cheap foam brush as an excellent applicator.
The hinge cutting of the hinge can be done after the box is assembled, or it can be used as a final step.
I finished this step after the box was completely painted and there was no problem.
You can cut the dado of the hinge on the box body on the table saw.
3/32 deep.
After adjusting the tear fence to the appropriate distance, turn the box upside down and place the front of the box next to the saw blade.
Then slide the box along the torn fence to cut the dado.
Turn the box, re-adjust the fence and do another dado.
In this way, the saw blade will exit behind the box.
And, while tearing at this depth is not a problem, I still put a piece of scrap on the box to support the cut for safety.
You have to cut the groove of the lid hinge with a chisel.
Mark the position and slowly remove a small amount of material at a time until you have a similar 3/32 deep mouth.
Note: Unless you choose to use a cover that is thicker or of a different shape than in this plan, the screws that come with the Hinge will be too long.
I forgot to consider this, but solved the problem by simply cutting the ends of the screws to the available length.
Also, be careful not to drill deep when drilling for screws.
Put some masking tape on the drill bit as a stop mark until the tape touches the lid almost.
Put the tray above in the jewelry box.
It will be placed on a fixed pallet and should be recessed at 1/8 \"below the side of the box.
In such a project, I always feel that personal emotions are a good feeling.
Any trophy shop can customize a small yellow copper plaque with heavy-duty double-sided tape that has been attached.
The plaque in this jewelry box cost $7. 00.
To apply: apply the plaque before attaching the lid to the box.
First, the measurement determines the position of the plaque on the inside of the lid.
Next, use a square close to the side of the lid to position the plaque in the desired position (and level)height.
Place the plaque on the edge of the square, carefully place it down and press it.
This is a simple process in the hope of making your gift more special and lovely. That\'s it!
I hope that this project will be an inspiration for aspiring carpentry using the instructures sites.
So since I always like to learn a new woodworking technique, I decided to teach myself how to make box joints.
The box joint, also known as the finger joint, is a beautiful form of carpentry that turns a simple box into a beautiful woodworking work.
Although similar to the more elegant bird tail joint, the box joint is easier to manufacture and actually provides a superior strength joint.
As shown in this manual, the technology used to create them is simple and easy to master.
To build a similar project, you need the following tools and materials:
Plans to build a fixture store are available online (Google search)
Or can buy ready-made. Block Plane -
LidElectric Drill3/4 \"chisel small Phillips head screwdriver material list for shaping bending: 1/2\" x 4 \"x 36\" oak on the side of the box (
For boxes with an overall size of 11 1/2 \"L x 6 1/2\" D x 3 1/2 \"H/dim inside.
10 \"x 5\" x 3 1/8 \")
Top1/4 \"x 4\" x 48 \"oak for upper and lower pallets (
Lower fixing tray and upper removable tray for each 1 1/2 \"H)
1/8 \"hard plate for the bottom felt of the box and upper tray for aligning the upper and lower traysbrass hinges
1 \"wideTitebond III (
Slow curing glue)
There are many shapes and sizes for the box joint fixture.
Some are very basic and some are very complicated.
You can find a free plan online, build it yourself or buy a fixture made in a beautiful factory (
View Woodcraft or Amazon).
The box joint fixture as shown here is easy to manufacture and uses stacked dado blades, making it a quick and easy process to create the box joint.
I built this fixture with a plan I found in Woodsmith magazine for a few bucks with the rest of the project wood.
A picture is a thousand words, but the video is better.
There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing how to cut the box joints in a variety of different ways.
The photo I posted shows a 1/4 box connector, which is the size I use on the jewelry box.
The following photo illustrates the basic steps to cut the workpiece of the two insert box joints: 1-
Full view photos of artifacts and jig2 initial settings-
Position the first artifact to a close-up photo of jig3-
Move the workpiece to the fixture key for the second and subsequent cuts4
Align the second using the first finished product (mating)
After cutting the four sides of the box to the right length, you can create the box connector.
This can be achieved in several different ways.
One way is to number each end of each side of the box and cut the ends in numbered order, working around the box.
This method corresponds to the sequence of photos I posted.
However, I found it easier to cut the sides of two long boxes first.
I then use the long edge as my \"gasket\" to cut the side of the short box as shown in step 4.
Note: always use some scrap to test the accuracy of the fixture before using the item wood to make sure you get a good fit.
The fixture will need some fine tuning if they don\'t fit well.
Also, keep in mind that all fingers and slots must be exactly the same size (
There is no part of the finger or slot at the top or bottom of the workpiece)
The main body of this jewelry box is 3 1/2 \"high: 14 joints X 1/4\" joint dimensions = 3 1/2 \"high work pieces. This series of pictures outlines how to assemble the side of the box.
There are several items to note before the conference. -
After cutting all the box joints, a 1/8 groove needs to be cut on the side of the box to accommodate the bottom of the hard wooden box.
Find the groove 1/4 \"from the bottom on the side of the box \". -
Wrap the side of the box at the edge of the joint using masking or painter tape.
This will capture any extruded glue and minimize the cleaning time. -
Use slow curing glue like Titebond III so that there is enough time to apply the glue to all seam surfaces before assembly.
Ideally, if you have enough clips, it\'s better to assemble the box in one step.
As you can see, I didn\'t, had to assemble the first three sides and then do the last.
In this case, the belt clip may be a better way.
Note: No matter how you choose to assemble the box, use a square to check the inner corners to make sure you get tight joints and square the box as much as possible.
The hinge dad can now cut if needed.
They made me forget at the time, and I did it later in the process.
If you want to cut them now, see the final assembly steps in this manual, which actually makes more sense.
Finally, polish the outside of the box evenly so that they are good and smooth (
In addition to the slight cleaning, you should have polished the inside of the box before assembly).
You can now apply stains and varnish to the box, or, if you wish, wait until all the other parts (
Lid, decoration and tray)
Ready to finish.
It seems like a daunting task to shape the curved lid for this project, but I am surprised that it has become so easy.
As shown in the picture attached to this step :-
First, a template of the desired shape must be created and connected to both ends of the wood blank.
In this case, I used a template from a plan I found online and slightly modified the final shape as I needed it. -
Next, raise and adjust the saw blade so that the angle reflects the angle of the template (
Pay attention to recommend tall auxiliary fences that help support the workpiece). -
Make the first cut, then rotate the workpiece before and after, and match the cut on the other side of the top. -
Adjust the angle of the blade (as needed)
Remove the additional material and define the overall shape further.
Like the previous step, do a second cut on both sides of the top.
I only need to cut twice for me. -
The next step involves smoothing the ridges created by a table saw cut using a block plane.
To do this, pass the block plane through the top at an angle of 45 degrees, moving from the bottom of each side to the top of the lid. TAKE YOUR TIME!
Set the plane to remove a small amount of material each time it passes through and continue the planing until a satisfactory shape is obtained. -
Finally, the work piece is polished using several different grades of sandpaper as the final smoothing step.
Stains and varnish (
See dyeing and finishing steps for more details).
The whole process of creating a shaped lid took me only about 30 minutes and I like to practice another technique I have never done before.
Low pallets are actually not pallets at all.
In fact, it\'s just four 1/2 high decorative pieces that stick to the side of the box.
Pallets can be divided into any number of smaller compartments (
I chose to divide it into two parts)
Accept partitions by cutting dad on decorative pieces. -
First, cut a piece of felt and glue at the bottom of the hard plate box (
I used a simple glue stick for this task)-
Next, stick the decorative pieces to the four walls.
This step assumes that all the dyeing and finishing inside the box has been completed, and the decorative pieces have been completed (
See next for more details). -
Finally, glue the pallet partition in place (
Dry Fit before bonding, then make comfortable fit, use glue very economical).
UpperTrayYou can design the upper tray of any number of different storage configurations.
The examples shown here fit my needs and are easy to make. -
Like the tray decoration below, the tray above is also 1 1/2 high
Carefully adjust the size of the upper tray so it can be placed in the jewelry box.
You want it to be easy to disassemble, not comfortable
Cut all the trays into a certain length, then add the rabbit to assemble the four sides, add dad for the splitter as needed-
Note: Since the bottom of the tray will be installed in the tray frame as detailed in the next step, the partition will be only 1 1/4 \"high-
Cut a rabbit 1/4 deep (
1/4 \"half the thickness of oak trim)
To accommodate hardwood floors on the side, the bottom of the shelf covered with felt-
Dry Fit check to make sure the tray looks good and fits the jewelry box (
As shown in this photo)-
Polish all parts before assembly, after assembly, repair the seams with wooden putty as needed and make final sanding-
The shop that makes the square fixture as shown in the attached photo will help to assemble (
Just use a few clips)
Guaranteed to have a square tray
Stains and varnish on the tray-
As you did for the lower tray, feel the glue at the bottom of the tray
On some projects, I prefer to glue the bottom of the finished tray to the tray frame before assembly.
This method is not practical for the box Connector project, so I completed these tasks after assembling the frame of the box and the upper tray.
Dyeing is relatively simple.
I chose two stains, the golden oak of the box and the red oak of the lid.
It is more challenging to paint the frame of the box and upper tray.
I found it would be better to paint only all surfaces that can dry in horizontal positions at the same time.
This means that every layer of varnish (
I ended up with three.
In order to avoid dripping water and running, it is applied in stages.
I used a smooth polyurethane and was very pleased with the depth it produced in the wood pattern and the smooth glass finish.
In the long and sometimes tedious process, the most surprising thing is how easy it is for foam brushes to work when applying varnish.
I have been using synthetic brush brushes, but when painting in narrow areas and corners, I would highly recommend a cheap foam brush as an excellent applicator.
The hinge cutting of the hinge can be done after the box is assembled, or it can be used as a final step.
I finished this step after the box was completely painted and there was no problem.
You can cut the dado of the hinge on the box body on the table saw.
3/32 deep.
After adjusting the tear fence to the appropriate distance, turn the box upside down and place the front of the box next to the saw blade.
Then slide the box along the torn fence to cut the dado.
Turn the box, re-adjust the fence and do another dado.
In this way, the saw blade will exit behind the box.
And, while tearing at this depth is not a problem, I still put a piece of scrap on the box to support the cut for safety.
You have to cut the groove of the lid hinge with a chisel.
Mark the position and slowly remove a small amount of material at a time until you have a similar 3/32 deep mouth.
Note: Unless you choose to use a cover that is thicker or of a different shape than in this plan, the screws that come with the Hinge will be too long.
I forgot to consider this, but solved the problem by simply cutting the ends of the screws to the available length.
Also, be careful not to drill deep when drilling for screws.
Put some masking tape on the drill bit as a stop mark until the tape touches the lid almost.
Put the tray above in the jewelry box.
It will be placed on a fixed pallet and should be recessed at 1/8 \"below the side of the box.
In such a project, I always feel that personal emotions are a good feeling.
Any trophy shop can customize a small yellow copper plaque with heavy-duty double-sided tape that has been attached.
The plaque in this jewelry box cost $7. 00.
To apply: apply the plaque before attaching the lid to the box.
First, the measurement determines the position of the plaque on the inside of the lid.
Next, use a square close to the side of the lid to position the plaque in the desired position (and level)height.
Place the plaque on the edge of the square, carefully place it down and press it.
This is a simple process in the hope of making your gift more special and lovely. That\'s it!
I hope that this project will be an inspiration for aspiring carpentry using the instructures sites.
Custom message
