Merryshine Jewelry, Moment, Faith, Forever.

new life for a vintage opal ring

by:Merryshine     2019-12-10
This is a very interesting project.
In my work, we often bring some old jewelry to repair and modify, and the owner of this vintage opal ring wants to keep a part of her original ring, and it\'s a great challenge to integrate it into a whole new one.
By creating a 3D model, you can show the owner how to create a new ring while maintaining the main design elements of her vintage Opal and sapphire ring, which is very emotional for her.
There are several different ways to make such a ring.
You can carve wax by hand (
This design is very difficult.
Hand-made with paper and wires (
Expensive and time consuming)
Or create a 3D model and print and cast, which is the most practical way to do this design.
Another benefit of creating a 3D model is that it allows the client to view the design before creating the casting.
When creating the model, the top of the customer\'s old ring was measured and a new ring was built around it.
The top of the old ring will be treated as an insert at the top of the new ring.
To add extra stones, a border was added to the top.
After adding the border, the downline bracket was added, followed by the ring handle.
The top is then removed, leaving only the boundary, and then adding the tip to the side of the handle to place the extra stone.
I have covered in great detail all the tools that the jeweler uses in this manual, so please refer to them for all the tools and how they are used.
I also included in each section links to specific tools used when making this ring.
If you have any questions about tools or programs, please do not hesitate!
One thing I am often asked about is the metal alloy used in jewelry manufacturing.
All precious metals have their advantages and disadvantages.
This ring is made in 14 k white gold.
The choice of white alloy includes platinum, palladium, platinum and sterling silver. Platinum-
Platinum is the strongest of all precious metals --
Unfortunately, it is also the most expensive.
Three platinum alloys are usually used
Platinum/gold 95/5, Platinum/cobalt 95/5, Platinum/gold 90/10.
Of the two 95% pure alloys I use most, Platinum/ru is a casting.
Platinum/cobalt is used by many large manufacturers because it flows better than platinum/ru, so it can capture the details better, but when it is heated with oxygen
This makes the sizing ring more difficult in the future.
Will also oxidation (
Different from other platinum alloys)
Therefore, it does not have a finish like other platinum alloys.
Platinum/Iridium is more commonly used when crafting jewelry because it is perfect for rolling, forming and stretching processes.
Most of the platinum jewelry in the Art Deco period was made of this alloy.
It is well cast but not as good as Platinum/ru.
Ru and Iridium alloys are not oxidized and they have a good finish.
The density of platinum is also larger than other precious metals (
More than twice the weight of sterling silver)
So big jewelry can be quite heavy.
Jewelry to be marked as platinum or platform must be 95% pure alloy. Palladium-
Palladium and platinum belong to the same metal family. Most palladium alloys are 95% pure alloys.
The advantage of palladium is that the alloy density with high purity is very low
Between sterling silver and gold.
The benefit of this is that if you have a large/bulky design for a necklace or ring, you can get a finish similar to platinum but with a much lower weight.
The price of palladium is usually slightly higher than that of gold, but far less than that of platinum.
The biggest drawback for palladium is that it is much softer than gold or platinum, so the fine wire or delicate design with thin spires really doesn\'t fit into this alloy
Its best use is a more robust design with border settings, channel settings, or flush settings.
The casting of palladium and platinum alloys is very tricky because they really should be cast in an inert environment. Microporosity (
Fine holes or milky surfaces that are considered very, very small)
It may be very common if these alloys are improperly cast.
Palladium is a little more gray than platinum and sterling silver.
Palladium jewelry is usually stamped or marked as 950 Pd.
Palladium and platinum are often referred to as \"dead\" metals.
When you push a nail on a stone, it often stays there.
In contrast, platinum is quite resilient (
It has quite a bit of memory)
So when you push a stone down, it sometimes has a tendency to bounce, so you need to check and make sure your stone is really safe. Gold-
White Gold is a common multi-purpose alloy that is suitable for various designs due to its good strength, reasonable weight and casting properties.
It is not suitable for hand-made, nor for platinum-made, as it works quite fast.
White Gold is easier to cast than yellow gold (
Very tolerant)
However, this can be done by any small centrifugal casting machine.
Nickel is usually white in platinum (
Sometimes with palladium or silver alloy)
As a result, it causes skin reactions in some people, and the platinum alloy also turns yellow by oxidation over time.
A common way to solve this problem is tin-plated aluminum.
Most of the white gold jewelry is white gold plated
This is its bright white finish as Rhodium is brighter than platinum or silver.
The other thing I\'m going to mention is not to wear platinum jewelry in the hot tub as these chemicals attack the alloy and cause corrosion cracking.
Gold jewelry is usually 18 K or 750 of 14 K or 585,18 K gold alloy of 14 K gold alloy. Sterling silver-
The last white precious metal alloy commonly used in jewelry manufacturing is sterling silver.
The density of sterling silver is very low and the cost is much lower than that of gold.
This is a very soft alloy that should be used in the design like Palladium, in favor of the baffle, channel setting and bead setting of the stone.
The thin spires are hard to hold the stone firmly.
Silver will be oxidized quickly and the polished surface will not last as long as other white alloys.
Sterling silver is very easy to cast and easy to form and finish.
Whenever someone starts making their own jewelry, I always recommend using sterling silver because it is low cost and how forgiving it is to use.
Sterling silver jewelry is usually printed or marked at 925 or pounds.
After the 3D model is approved, the design file is sent to the facility where the model is printed and then the model is cast using the lost wax investment casting process.
It usually takes about a week to receive the original casting from the casters.
For gold and silver casting of 3D models, the best casting is done very well.
After receiving the casting, I checked very carefully for defects.
Next, the casting gate is worn out and the areas are filed and polished smooth.
Then I cleaned the inside of the ring and made sure it was round and the ring was the right size.
The sides of the ring are polished flat with a sand stick and then smooth the rough surface of the original casting with a grinding wheel with a rotating tool.
Once I am satisfied with the appearance of the original casting, I will use the Tripoli compound to lightly polish it as any surface defect will appear immediately, you want to solve this problem stone before setting any surface defects.
Next, I prepared the ring to place the stone.
The process is the same as what I have shown here, but on this ring, it becomes much simpler as the little spires are incorporated into the casting, so the degree of engraving/cutting is almost involved in the work
With this setting, I used a small drill to drill a relief for the bottom of each stone.
Next, cut stone seats with straight Ding burrs.
After all the stone seats were cut, I used a stainless steel brush in the rotary tool to remove any remaining small pieces of metal from the cutting seat.
Each stone is then placed on the seat, pressing the small spikes on the stone with a beading tool.
I first put the smaller stone on the boundary at the top of the ring and then put the stone on the side of the ring handle.
Once the stone is set up, the ring is finally polished using a rouge compound and then plated in rh solution.
Rhodium plating includes first cleaning the ring in an electric cleaning solution, then washing with clear water, then washing with Rhodium bath, and then washing with clear water.
Both electric cleaning and rh Bath are carried out using rectifier at about 5 v. The Electric cleaning time is 1 minute and the rh bath time is 30 seconds.
After the ring is removed from the Rhodium bath, it has a very bright white finish.
When discussing the design with the owner, it was decided to place the small curved wire on the lower side of the yellow ring in order to connect the design to the top of the old ring.
These wires could have been made of gold wires and welded inside, but due to the amount of labor involved, this would add more cost to the ring.
In order to plating the wire part, the rest of the ring is coated with nail polish and allow for drying.
Only areas where gold is to be plated will be exposed.
I personally prefer red nail polish because it has less runny nose and is easier to see, but everything I have in the store is yellow so that\'s what I use. :)
The gold plating process is exactly the same as the white plated Rhodium process, and I\'m glad to see it perfect for the first time.
If I don\'t do a good job of covering up the ring with nail polish, then the gold plating will appear in the wrong place and I have to remove the gold plating and repeat the whole polishing, plating and masking process.
After the gold plating process was completed, I soaked the ring with acetone and removed the nail polish.
On the other hand, certain stones and materials like Lapis and Pearl cannot be immersed in plating solutions because they will be destroyed very quickly.
Always ask the plating solution manufacturer if your material is safe to plating when in doubt.
Now that the new installation is ready, it\'s time to add the center top from the old ring.
The top was carefully cut off the old ring and trimmed to accommodate the new installation, making sure it was perfectly centered and kept level.
Once I was happy with the fit, I polished the piece, inserted it into the top of the ring and used a laser welder to weld it to the new ring on the lower side of the ring.
The reason I did this with a laser is that the Opals were set up on the old ring top.
Removing and resetting the Opals is risky because they are very easy to break, so the risk of completing the installation first and then welding the central components in place is much smaller.
If I don\'t have a laser welder, I need to remove the stone from the center part, weld it in place, and then reset the stone before the ring completes the entire polishing and plating process.
The finished ring was then given to its very happy owner.
I was told that she was very excited about the results of the finished ring, which always made me very happy.
I also think it will be very neat when you can recycle old jewelry and turn it into something new, especially when you can keep the emotional nature of the original jewelry.
As always, don\'t hesitate if anyone has any questions about jewelry manufacturing and all related processes!
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